Guatemala

This 1988 trip to Guatemala began in Belize, where we rented a car and drove across the border to the ancient Mayan city of Tikal. Border crossings are not a big deal in most places but at this time the two countries were technically at war with each other. It was a pretty mellow war though, not much more than a few shots fired each year according to the border guards. It was just too hot to fight, they said. This was high adventure for us, as we hadn't really done much rough traveling through the backwoods of Central America at that time.

Near El Zapote, Guatemala. This was the closest thing to Google Maps in 1988. The roads were very bad and poorly marked all the way from the Guatemala border to Tikal. This was one of a very few road signs we found along the way.

Near Macanche, Guatemala. Intimidating regional border crossings like this one were always manned by machine gun-toting kids who were barely old enough to shave. We were coming straight from scuba diving in Belize and had a car full of expensive dive gear. We began to wonder how many border crossings we would be able to get all this gear past before being relieved of it. Oh, and the passenger's window was jammed in the "open" position so we couldn't even lock the car! In the end, all gear and crew survived. The sign says "hell", and Kaibil is a division of the Guatemala Armed Forces.

Tikal, Guatemala. The big prize. After a long / hot/ bumpy /dusty trip we arrive at one of the finest Mayan ruins in the world. This is the main entrance, leading to the largest pyramid at Tikal. The entire area is several square miles in size, and many pyramids and other structures were still buried under dense jungle. Some were being excavated but because of the sheer size of the city many structures will remain buried for years to come - maybe forever.

Tikal, Guatemala. The view from the top of the main pyramid, looking down on some of the neighboring structures. Archeologists were conducting active excavations under the thatched roofs.

Tikal, Guatemala. If this scene looks familiar that's because years later it was used as one of the closing shots in the original Star Wars movie (our heroes returning to home base after destroying the Death Star). The other pyramids off in the distance give some idea of the scale of this place. Further out from the city center smaller "humps" in the jungle canopy hint at the pyramids underneath, still waiting to be uncovered.

Tikal, Guatemala. These ladders lead up the deteriorated side of one of the recently-discovered pyramids farther out in the jungle. Ancient stonework will eventually be repaired and vegetation trimmed back to expose the whole structure. Archeologists were burrowing inside to recover whatever artifacts the pyramid-robbers left behind.

A view worth the climb. Standing out on the upper ledge of one of the larger restored pyramids. From up here many 'bumps' in the jungle canopy could be seen, giving away the positions of still-buried pyramids and other structures. This is a rare picture of my travel buddy exploring the ruins : because of the stuck-open car window and all the expensive gear inside, one person had to stay with the car at all times, so we had to take turns exploring the ruins separately!

This trip was in 1988, and I would be very surprised if tourists are still allowed on or in these structures as shown in many of these photos. As more tourists have come here (and other similar places) the impacts from the masses result in more and more restrictions. That takes away from the sense of exploration but it's probably a good thing for the health of the resource.